After a little break in our Puglia road trip blogging, we’re jumping back in today with our drive from Matera to Polignano A Mare, Italy!
When we first started researching this trip, Polignano A Mare continuously popped up as a must-see. Just from photos, I knew we had to include it in our road trip which began with two days at a Puglia winery, followed by a full day exploring the cave town of Matera. On our fourth day, we set out for the Adriatic coast to discover the beauty that is Polignano a Mare.
5-Day Road Trip Around Puglia, Italy: Day 4 in Polignano a Mare
Morning in Matera & Drive to Polignano a Mare
We woke in Matera to find our breakfast basket delivery had arrived. With the sun already shining, we sat in our courtyard and enjoyed sandwiches and croissants. The items were a little carb heavy but nutella on bread is never a bad way to start the morning!
The just over an hour drive to Polignano A Mare is fairly unassuming without too much to look at. We had originally planned a detour to see Castel del Monte, but that morning decided we’d rather just get to Polignano A Mare so we could explore without feeling rushed.
Arrival in Polignano a Mare
Our rental apartment, La Naca sul Porto (Tramanto room), was booked through Trame. We had reserved parking in advance and their team was very helpful. They provided directions to the parking lot and sent a golf cart upon our arrival so we didn’t have to trek with luggage. Since we arrived well before our check-in time, they allowed us to store our bags in the meantime.
Our first sightseeing stop: the famous viewpoint of Lama Monachile. Even early in the day, you’ll see the beach was already packed! The below view is from Ponte Borbonico (Bourbon Bridge).
Crossing the bridge, we continued to stroll along the cliffside stopping next at the Pendma Chiatt (Pietra Piatta) viewpoint which looks back on the white walled buildings of the historic center of Polignano A Mare.
Not far from this beautiful viewpoint, you’ll see one of Polignano A Mare’s popular photo spots: the statue of famous Italian singer Domenico Modugno. Modugno was born in Polignano A Mare and it’s also where he held the last major concert of his career.
We continued our walk taking in the spectacular view of the Adriatic Sea and even some swimmers below. It looked refreshing but also a little nerve wracking with the waves and rocks around the cove.
By this time we were getting pretty hungry and wanted a lunch spot with a view. Just steps from the Modugno statue is Malidea, with outdoor seating facing the sea. The menu was also really intriguing. Who would have thought hot dogs would be one of our tastiest bites in Puglia?!
Afternoon in Polignano a Mare
With our bellies full, we decided to venture down to the beach — knowing it would be quite chaotic but wanting to see it from a different angle rather than just from above. Packed it was, but also so very Italian and exactly what you’d expect on a gorgeous summer afternoon.
Next we headed into the old town to explore for a bit longer until it was time to check in to our room. We started with refreshing mojitos at La Casa Del Mojito, a cocktail bar in one of old town’s quaint alleyways. The only disappointment was the plastic straws — the bar is so close to the sea!
Be sure to keep an eye out for poetry and quotes on the walls scattered throughout Polignano A Mare. One such quote, attributed to Mark Twain, translates to “This place was created before paradise.”
Mid-afternoon we checked-in to our old town apartment to shower and change. The apartment was exactly what we needed for one night: central location and a small balcony with a peek at the sea.
Evening in Polignano a Mare
Refreshed and ready for the evening, it was time for a little more old town exploration. We wandered through the streets and checked out a few shops. Despite it being one of the more touristy spots in Puglia, it was actually quite quiet in late afternoon, likely due to siesta.
The lighter crowd made it the perfect time for a classic photo on the bridge overlooking Lama Monachile.
Our next stop was Sensi Di Vino wine bar, but upon arrival, we found it didn’t actually open for about 30 minutes. Fortunately, Gas Bar was just a few steps away and is open all day. It’s a cute bookshop/coffee/cocktail bar with indoor and outdoor seating.
When Sensi Di Vino opened, we were the first guests in the door! After wandering town during the heat of the day, we were both ready for a refreshing glass of white and our choices did not disappoint. I had a glass of Lyra Il Palagione which I LOVED (yes, I photographed the menu to remember it) and have not been able to find anywhere in the U.S.
We also ordered a few bites at Sensi di Vino and everything was beautifully presented and delicious. This ended up being one of our favorite meals of the entire Puglia, Italy trip!
After the wine bar, we made our way back toward Via Roma, Polignano A Mare’s popular strip with shops, restaurants, bars, and accommodations. Along the way, we passed what I think was a temporary photo opp spot in front of some of the shops. The placard reads Il Paese dell’amore, or “the country of love.” We couldn’t agree more!
Remeber the famous singer Domenico Modugno we mentioned? Well, strolling Via Roma you’ll see lights above the street in Italian with the lyrics to his famous song Volare.
When the town comes alive for the evening, the outdoor seating at every bar and restaurant along the street gets filled. Since it was still fairly early, we didn’t have any trouble as a “walk-in” and stopped for a cocktail and a snack. And, of course, you know we love a good photo opp.
When the sun starts to set in Polignano A Mare, the one thing you can’t miss is the spectacular colors with the backdrop of the Adriatic cliffs. We headed down one of the alleyways to enjoy the view.
From there, we bounced around town for a few hours checking out several restaurants for snacks and drinks. Before we knew it, it was time for bed before our last full day in Puglia
What did we miss in Polignano A Mare?
We originally planned for a dining experience at Grotta Palazzese, a cave restaurant situated right over the Adriatic. We didn’t book it in advance, however, not knowing how tired we’d be or if we’d be up for a fancy dinner. Grotta Palazzese is also certainly one of the more expensive restaurants in town and after nearly two weeks of travel, we decided for a more relaxed and inexpensive evening. Still, the reviews of the restaurant are quite good and if we ever make it back to Puglia, we hope to give it a try.
If you have multiple days in Polignano A Mare, a day or half day trip to Monopoli is also recommended. The town is just a 15 minute drive or a less than 10 minute train ride! We just didn’t have time to squeeze it in.
What’s Next?
That’s how we closed out our full day in Polignano A Mare. The following day we began our drive to Brindisi, where we first began our Puglia road trip. Along the way, we stopped in Alberobello and Ostuni, and took a break at a beautiful winery. All the details in our next post!
Need more Italy inspiration?
Check out these blog posts to help you plan your trip:
- Where to Stay in Puglia, Italy: Emera Wine Resort
- 5-Day Puglia Itinerary: Days 1 & 2 in Italy
- 5-Day Puglia Itinerary: Day 3 in Matera, Italy
